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    • 专利摘要:
    Composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, especially for coating keratin materials, more particularly for makeup and / or care of keratin materials, such as the skin, in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising an aqueous phase, a fatty phase and pigments characterized in that: said composition comprises at least mica in a proportion ranging from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and at least one lipophilic clay, said fatty phase comprises at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil and at least one non-cyclic silicone oil.
    公开号:FR3031306A1
    申请号:FR1550031
    申请日:2015-01-05
    公开日:2016-07-08
    发明作者:Audrey Ricard；Celine Kongmany
    申请人:LOreal SA；
    IPC主号:
    专利说明:

    [0001] The present invention relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, especially for coating keratin materials, more particularly for makeup and / or care of keratin materials, such as the skin. Preferably, the invention relates to a composition of the fluid foundation type, with optimized cosmetic and sensory qualities. Cosmetic compositions, in particular foundations, are commonly used to bring an aesthetic color to the skin, but also to camouflage, and / or to unify the imperfections of the relief of the skin such as wrinkles and / or fine lines and / or scars, in this respect coverage is one of the main properties sought. Therefore, many formulations, solid or fluid, anhydrous or not, have so far been developed. The present invention more particularly relates to fluid compositions in the form of emulsions. In emulsion-type compositions, the coverage is generally obtained by means of pigments. The introduction into said compositions of a large amount of pigments will make it possible to obtain a covering and homogeneous makeup, nevertheless these properties are obtained to the detriment of a natural makeup effect and cosmetic properties. Indeed, the property of the pigments to absorb the oils present in the compositions leads to obtaining thicker formulations, less easy to spread and leading to a "mask" effect that is generally not acceptable. Thus there is still a need to provide new formulations to improve the makeup result, including obtaining a makeup result that is perceived as more natural while maintaining a satisfactory coverage.
    [0002] The technical problem at the origin of the present invention is to propose compositions, especially foundations, having a balance between the technical performance and sensory sensations generally sought namely a satisfying makeup result, a feeling of hydration of the skin and a feeling of breathability of the skin. In the specific case of foundations, the term "central foundation" is sometimes used to qualify a composition that includes all of these properties.
    [0003] Unexpectedly and advantageously, the inventors have shown that the compositions according to the present invention make it possible to meet this need. Thus, according to one of its aspects, the present invention is directed to a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, in particular for coating keratin materials, more particularly for makeup and / or care of keratin materials, such as the skin, in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising an aqueous phase, a fatty phase and pigments characterized in that: said composition comprises at least mica in a proportion ranging from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and less a lipophilic clay, said fatty phase comprises at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil and at least one non-cyclic silicone oil. The composition according to the invention has good covering properties: visually, it provides a natural and homogeneous colonel effect to the application while providing the user with a feeling of freshness and lightness to the touch. Finally, the composition is easy to apply on the surface of the targeted keratin material. This performance is characterized in particular by a good play-time. The compositions obtained are stable and homogeneous: no sedimentation or agglomeration of the particles, in particular pigments, is observed. As can be seen from the examples appearing below, the inventors have found that the compositions according to the invention lead to the obtaining of a deposit on the skin judged to be fine and homogeneous and to a covering and natural make-up: the imperfections of color and relief are masked satisfactorily. Another subject of the present invention is, according to another of its aspects, a process for coating keratin materials, more particularly for makeup and / or care of keratin materials, such as the skin, characterized in that it comprises the application to the keratin materials of at least one composition according to the invention. Cosmetic composition The composition according to the invention is a water-in-oil emulsion. An emulsion generally consists of an oily liquid phase, in this case the continuous phase, and an aqueous liquid phase, in this case the dispersed phase. It is a dispersion of droplets of aqueous phase in the oily phase. The size of the droplets forming the dispersed aqueous phase of the emulsion is typically of the order of one micrometer (0.1 to 100 μm). In addition, an emulsion requires the presence of a surfactant or an emulsifier to ensure its stability over time. According to the present invention, the aqueous phase and the oily phase forming a composition according to the invention are present in a weight ratio ranging from 5/50 to 95/50. More preferably, the aqueous phase and the oily phase are present in a weight ratio ranging from 20/80 to 45/55, preferably 35/65 to 40/60. The ratio between the two phases is adjusted according to the desired cosmetic properties. Multiphase formulas can also be developed.
    [0004] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention has a viscosity, measured at 25 ° C, at a shear rate of 200 min-1 (200 revolutions per minute, ie a frequency of 50 Hz), ranging from 0.12 to 0, 6 Pa.s (1.2 to 6 poise), and especially ranging from 0.25 to 0.49 Pa.s (2.5 to 4.9 poise). Such a viscosity allows easy application of the emulsion and obtaining a homogeneous makeup, uniform and without trace. The viscosity is measured at 25 ° C with a CONTRAVES viscometer type TV equipped with a mobile No. 2, the measurement being performed after 10 minutes of rotation of the mobile (time after which a stabilization of viscosity and speed is observed mobile rotation) at a shear rate of 200 min-1.
    [0005] Mica The mica used in the composition according to the invention is in the form of pure mica, that is to say in the form of filler (s), in the form of nacre (s), that is to say that is then covered with at least one metal oxide, or in the form of mixtures of filler (s) and mother-of-pearl (s).
    [0006] The fillers are colorless or solid white particles of all shapes, which are in an insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition.
    [0007] Of mineral or organic nature, natural or synthetic, they make it possible to confer on the composition containing them softness, dullness and uniformity in makeup. In addition, these fillers advantageously make it possible to fight against various aggressions such as sebum or sweat.
    [0008] The charge mica preferably used is fluorphlogopite. The nacres can be chosen from pearlescent pigments, such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with with an organic dye. It may also be mica particles on the surface of which are superimposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic dyestuffs.
    [0009] Mention may also be made, by way of example of nacres, of natural mica coated with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigment or with bismuth oxychloride. Among the nacres available on the market, mention may be made of the nacres Timica, Flamenco and Duochrome (based on mica) marketed by ENGELHARD, the nacres Timiron marketed by Merck, nacres based on mica Prestige marketed by the company Eckart and nacres based on Sunshine synthetic mica sold by the company Sun Chemical. The nacres may more particularly have a color or a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or coppery reflection. Advantageously, the nacres according to the invention are micas coated with titanium dioxide or iron oxide and bismuth oxychloride. The composition according to the invention comprises from 1 to 10%, preferably from 1.2 to 5% and advantageously from 1.5 to 3% by weight of mica relative to the total weight of the composition.
    [0010] The lipophilic clays The composition according to the invention comprises at least one lipophilic clay as a gelling agent.
    [0011] The clays can be natural or synthetic and are rendered lipophilic by treatment with an alkylammonium salt such as a C 10 -C 22 ammonium chloride, for example di-stearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride. They may be chosen from bentonites, in particular hectorites and montmorillonites, beidellites, saponites, nontronites, sepiolites, biotites, attapulgites, vermiculites and zeolites. Preferably, they are chosen from hectorites. Preferably, the lipophilic clays used are hectorites modified with a C10 to C22 ammonium chloride, such as hectorite modified with di-stearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride such as, for example, that marketed under the name of Bentone 38V® by Elementis or the bentone gel in isododecane sold under the name Bentone Gel ISD V® (Isododecane 87% / Disteardimonium Hectorite 10% / Propylene carbonate 3%) by Elementis. The lipophilic clay may especially be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, in particular from 0.5% to 10%, more particularly from 0.7% to 2% by weight relative to the weight. total of the oily phase. Oily phase For the purposes of the invention, an oily phase comprises at least one oil.
    [0012] The term "oil" means any fatty substance in liquid form at ambient temperature at atmospheric pressure. An oily phase suitable for the preparation of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may comprise hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, fluorinated or not, or mixtures thereof.
    [0013] The oils may be volatile or non-volatile. They can be of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "non-volatile oil" means an oil having a vapor pressure of less than 0.13 Pa. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "silicone oil" means an oil comprising at least a silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group. The term "fluorinated oil" means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.
    [0014] The term "hydrocarbon oil" means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms. The oils may optionally comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms, for example, in the form of hydroxyl or acidic radicals. By "volatile oil" is meant, within the meaning of the invention, any oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound which is liquid at ambient temperature, in particular having a non-zero vapor pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (101 to 300 mm Hg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm Hg), Hg).
    [0015] Hydrocarbon volatile oils The composition according to the invention comprises at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil, preferably comprising from 8 to 16 carbon atoms. Mention may be made of C8-C16 branched alkanes, for example iso-alkanes (also known as isoparaffins) with C8-C16, in particular isododecane, isodecane and isohexadecane, for example the oils sold under the trade names of Isopars or permetyls, branched C8-C16 esters such as isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the volatile hydrocarbon oil is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof, in particular from isododecane, isodecane and isohexadecane, and especially isododecane. It is also possible to mention volatile linear alkanes comprising from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular from 10 to 15 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 11 to 13 carbon atoms, for example such as n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97, and mixtures thereof, undecanedridecane mixtures, mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13) such as those obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of WO 2008/155059 from Cognis, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the volatile hydrocarbon oil is present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1 to 40% by weight, particularly from 0.5 to 35% by weight and more particularly from 2 to 25%. by weight, preferably 5 to 20% by weight or even 10 to 18% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
    [0016] Non-cyclic silicone oils The present invention comprises at least one non-cyclic silicone oil. By "silicone oil" is meant an organopolysiloxane. By "non-cyclic" oil, is meant a linear or branched oil, comprising no cycle. In other words, the oil according to the invention is devoid of "radical (hetero) aryl" and / or "radical (hetero) cycloalkyl". The non-cyclic silicone oil is volatile or non-volatile. The term "non-volatile oil" means an oil remaining on the keratin fiber at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, for at least several hours and in particular having a vapor pressure of less than 101 mmHg (0.13 Pa). It is also possible to define a non-volatile oil as having an evaporation rate such that under the conditions defined above, the amount evaporated after 30 minutes is less than 0.07 mg / cm 2. Preferably, the molecular weight of the non-cyclic silicone oil is between 500 and 100,000 g / mol.
    [0017] According to the invention, the non-cyclic silicone oils exhibiting at 25 ° C. a viscosity of between 1 and 20 cSt (between 1 and 20 mm 2 / s) are particularly suitable. The method for measuring the viscosity used in the invention for characterizing the silicone oils according to the invention can be the "kinematic viscosity at 25 ° C. raw product CID-012-01" or the "Viscosity Ubbelohde DIN 51562-1". PV04001 25 ° C.
    [0018] The non-cyclic silicone oils that can be used in the makeup compositions according to the present invention are represented by the following general formula (I): ## STR1 ## where R 1 is R 1-Si-O Si 0 Si 0 -R 1 R 1, identical or different, representing: i) a linear or branched, especially C 1 -C 6 (C 1 -C 20) alkyl group, linear or branched, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl; or ii) a hydroxyl group; where R2 represents: i) a linear or branched (C1-C20) alkyl group optionally being interrupted and / or terminated by a heteroatom such as O, S, N, especially i) is a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl group; such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, or butyl; ii) a (Ci-C9) (poly) haloalkyl group, especially perfluoroalkyl, comprising from 1 to 9 halogen atoms, particularly fluorine such as trifluoromethyl; and iii) the polysiloxane group -O- [Si (R 1) 2 -O] '- Si (R 1) 3 with R 1 as defined above; o representing a radical R1 or R2 as defined above; where m is an integer between 0 and 150, preferably 20 and 100; o n and n ', identical or different, being an integer inclusive between 1 and 300, preferably 1 and 100; According to a preferred embodiment R'1 represents the radical R1, and more particularly a (C1-C6) alkyl group such as methyl. According to a particular embodiment, m is 0.
    [0019] According to another particular embodiment of the invention R 1 is methyl and more particularly m is 0 and R 1 is methyl. According to a particular example of the invention, the non-cyclic silicone oils may be chosen from a fluorosilicone compound.
    [0020] Mention may in particular be made of fluorosilicone compounds marketed by Shin-Etsu under the names `X22-819 ',` X22-820', `X22-821 'and` X22-822' or even TL-100 '. According to a preferred embodiment, said non-cyclic silicone oil is a dimethicone corresponding to the following formula (II): (II) in this formula (II), x being an integer varying from 1 to 50, better still from 1 to 20 and more specifically from 1 to 10. The molecular weight of such a compound may for example be approximately 770 g / mol. Preferably, x is between 1 and 7, advantageously between 1 and 5. According to one particular embodiment, the non-cyclic silicone oil of general formula (I) or (II), having at 25 ° C. a viscosity between 1 and 20 cSt, is advantageously chosen from the following oils: octamethyltrisiloxane (1 cSt), decamethyltetrasiloxane (1.5 cSt), and dodecamethylpentasiloxane (2 cSt), or else dimethicones with a viscosity equal to 5 cSt, that is, ie INCI Dimethicone 5cSt name oils, for instance those sold by Dow Corning under the references 200R Fluid ScSt® or XIAMETER® PMX-200 SILICONE FLUID 5CS °.
    [0021] Preferably, the non-cyclic silicone oil is present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1 to 40% by weight, particularly from 5 to 35% by weight and more particularly from 10 to 25% by weight. weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
    [0022] Non-volatile oils The composition according to the invention may comprise a non-volatile oil. It is within the skill of a person skilled in the art to choose the nature and the quantity of non-volatile oil (s) that may be introduced into the composition without altering its properties. compositions according to the invention comprise less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 3% by weight are preferably free of cyclic silicone volatile oils such as for example octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.
    [0023] When they are present, the non-volatile oils may, in particular, be chosen from hydrocarbon oils, fluorinated oils and / or non-volatile silicone oils. As non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, mention may be made in particular of: - hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, - hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as dicapryl ether, - esters of synthesis, such as the oils of formula R1COOR2, in which R1 represents a residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular, branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms with the proviso that R 1 + R 2 is 10. The esters may be, in particular, chosen from alcohol and fatty acid esters, for example, cetostearyl octanoate, esters of isopropyl alcohol, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, octyl stearate, hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols, hexyl laurate, esters of neopentanoic acid, such as isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, esters of isononanoic acid, such as isononanoate isononyl ester, sotridecyl isononanoate, - polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, such as dipentaerythritol tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate, - branched-chain and / or unsaturated carbon-chain liquid fatty alcohols having 12 at 26 carbon atoms, such as 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, - higher C12-C22 fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof, non-phenyl silicone oils, for example caprylyl methycone, and phenylated silicone oils, for example phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones or phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenyls. yl siloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, dimethicones or phenyltrimethicone of viscosity less than or equal to 100 cSt, trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane, and mixtures thereof; as well as the mixtures of these different oils. A composition according to the invention may comprise from 1% to 95% by weight, better still from 1.5% to 40% by weight, preferably from 2% to 35% by weight of oil (s) relative to the total weight of said composition.
    [0024] Aqueous Phase The aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention comprises water and optionally a water-soluble solvent. By "water-soluble solvent" is meant in the present invention a liquid compound at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25 ° C and atmospheric pressure). The water-soluble solvents that can be used in the composition of the invention may also be volatile. Among the water-soluble solvents that can be used in the composition in accordance with the invention, mention may be made in particular of lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethanol and isopropanol, glycols having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms. carbon such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol and dipropylene glycol, C3 and C4 ketones and C2-C4 aldehydes. The aqueous phase (water and optionally the water-miscible solvent) may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 5% to 95%, better still from 30% to 80% by weight, preferably from 40% to 75% by weight. by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.
    [0025] According to another variant embodiment, the aqueous phase of a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one C2-C32 polyol. By "polyol" is meant for the purposes of the present invention, any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups.
    [0026] Preferably, a polyol according to the present invention is present in liquid form at room temperature. A polyol that is suitable for the invention may be a linear, branched or cyclic alkyl compound, saturated or unsaturated, bearing at least two -OH functions on the alkyl chain, in particular at least three -OH functions, and more particularly at Minus four -OH functions. The polyols which are advantageously suitable for formulating a composition according to the present invention are those having in particular 2 to 32 carbon atoms, preferably 3 to 16 carbon atoms. Advantageously, the polyol may be, for example, chosen from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, 1,3-propane diol, butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerol, polyglycerols, such as oligomers of glycerol such as diglycerol, polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, said polyol is selected from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, glycerol, polyglycerols, polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof. According to one particular embodiment, the composition of the invention may comprise at least propylene glycol. According to another particular embodiment, the composition of the invention may comprise at least glycerol. Pigments The composition according to the invention comprises at least one pigment. The term "pigments" means white or colored, mineral or organic particles, insoluble in an aqueous medium, intended to color and / or opacify the composition and / or the resulting film. These pigments may be white or colored, mineral and / or organic.
    [0027] Preferably, the composition comprises from 0.01% to 25% by weight, especially from 0.1% to 25% by weight, in particular from 1% to 25% by weight and preferably from 5% to 15% by weight. of pigments, relative to the total weight of said composition.
    [0028] Hydrophobic coated pigments Preferably, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one pigment coated with at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound and in particular as detailed below.
    [0029] This type of pigment is particularly advantageous insofar as it can be considered in significant quantities together with a large amount of water. Moreover, insofar as they are treated with a hydrophobic compound, they show a predominant affinity for the oily gelled phase which can then convey them. Of course, the compositions according to the invention may in parallel contain uncoated pigments. These pigments are more particularly detailed below. According to a particular embodiment, the coated pigments used according to the invention are chosen from inorganic pigments. By "inorganic pigment" is meant any pigment that meets the definition of the Ullmann encyclopedia in the inorganic pigment chapter. Among the mineral pigments useful in the present invention, mention may be made of zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as oxides of zinc, iron (black, yellow or red) or chromium, manganese violet, ultramarine blue , chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, metal powders such as aluminum powder and copper powder. The following mineral pigments can also be used: Ta 2 O 5, Ti 3 O 5, Ti 2 O 3, TiO, ZrO 2 mixed with TiO 2, ZrO 2, Nb 2 O 5, CeO 2, ZnS. The size of the pigment useful in the context of the present invention is generally between 10 nm and 10 [μm, preferably between 20 nm and 5 μm, and more preferably between 30 nm and 1 μm.
    [0030] In the context of the present invention, the coated mineral pigments are more particularly iron oxide and / or titanium dioxide.
    [0031] By way of example, mention may be made more particularly of titanium dioxide and iron oxide, coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate, for example sold under the reference NAI by the company MIYOSHI KASEI.
    [0032] Coating of the pigment The composition according to the invention advantageously comprises at least one pigment coated with at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound. The coating may also comprise at least one additional non-lipophilic compound.
    [0033] For the purposes of the invention, the "coating" of a pigment according to the invention generally refers to the total or partial surface treatment of the pigment with a surface agent, absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto said pigment. The surface-treated pigments may be prepared according to chemical, electronic, mechano-chemical or mechanical surface treatment techniques well known to those skilled in the art. Commercial products can also be used. The surfactant can be absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto the pigments by solvent evaporation, chemical reaction and creation of a covalent bond. According to one variant, the surface treatment consists of a coating of the pigments.
    [0034] The coating may represent from 0.1% to 20% by weight, and in particular from 0.5% to 5% by weight, of the total weight of the coated pigment. The coating may be carried out, for example, by adsorption of a liquid surface agent on the surface of the solid particles by simply stirring the particles and said surfactant, optionally while hot, prior to the incorporation of the particles into the other particles. ingredients of the makeup or care composition. The coating may be carried out for example by chemical reaction of a surfactant with the surface of the solid pigment particles and creation of a covalent bond between the surfactant and the particles. This method is described in particular in US Pat. No. 4,578,266.
    [0035] The chemical surface treatment may consist in diluting the surfactant in a volatile solvent, dispersing the pigments in this mixture, and then slowly evaporating the volatile solvent, so that the surfactant is deposited on the surface pigments. Lipophilic or hydrophobic treatment agent When the pigment comprises a lipophilic or hydrophobic coating, the latter is preferably present in the fatty phase of the composition according to the invention. According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments may be coated according to the invention with at least one compound chosen from silicone surface agents; fluorinated surfactants; fluorosilicone surfactants; metallic soaps; N-acyl amino acids or their salts; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyl trisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; natural vegetable or animal waxes; polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and their mixtures.
    [0036] Silicone surface agent According to a particular embodiment, the pigments may be surface-treated wholly or partially with a compound of silicone nature. The silicone surfactants may be chosen from organopolysiloxanes, silane derivatives, silicone-acrylate copolymers, silicone resins, and mixtures thereof. By "organopolysiloxane compound" is meant a compound having a structure comprising an alternation of silicon atoms and oxygen atoms and comprising organic radicals bonded to the silicon atoms.
    [0037] Non-Elastomeric Organopolysiloxane Non-elastomeric organopolysiloxanes that may especially be mentioned include polydimethylsiloxanes, polymethylhydrogensiloxanes and polyalkoxydimethylsiloxanes. The alkoxy group may be represented by the radical R-O- such that R represents methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl, 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl radicals, aryl radicals such as phenyl, tolyl, xylyl, or substituted aryl radicals such as phenylethyl.
    [0038] One method for surface treatment of pigments with a polymethylhydrogenosiloxane is to disperse the pigments in an organic solvent and then to add the silicone compound. By heating the mixture, covalent bonds are created between the silicone compound and the surface of the pigment.
    [0039] According to a preferred embodiment, the silicone surfactant may be a non-elastomeric organopolysiloxane, especially chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes. ii) Alkylsilanes and Alkoxysilanes Alkoxy functional silanes are described in particular by Witucki in "Silane primer, Chemistry and applications of alkoxy silanes, Journal of Coatings technology, 65, 822, pages 57-60, 1993". Alkoxysilanes such as alkyltriethoxysilanes and alkyltrimethoxysilanes sold under the references Silquest A-137 (OSI Specialties) and Prosil 9202 (PCR) can be used for coating the pigments. The use of the alkylpolysiloxanes having a reactive end group such as alkoxy, hydroxy, halogen, amino or imino is described in the application H07-196946. They are also suitable for the treatment of pigments. iii) Silicone-Acrylate Polymers Grafted silicone-acrylic polymers having a silicone backbone as described in US Patents 5,725,882, US 5,209,924, US 4,972,037, US 4,981,903, US 4,981,902, US 5,468,477, and in US Patents 5,219,560 and US Pat. EP 0 388 582 may be used. Other silicone-acrylate polymers may be silicone polymers having in their structure the unit of formula (I) as follows: GGGI 1 Si 0) 1 (-Si-O-) (G2), TS-G3 G1 (G2) T7S-G4 in which the radicals G1, which may be identical or different, represent hydrogen or a C1-C10 alkyl radical or a phenyl radical; the radicals G2, which may be identical or different, represent a C1-C10 alkylene group; G3 represents a polymeric residue resulting from the (homo) polymerization of at least one anionic monomer with (I) ethylenic unsaturation; G4 represents a polymeric residue resulting from the (homo) polymerization of at least one hydrophobic monomer containing ethylenic unsaturation; m and n are 0 or 1; a is an integer ranging from 0 to 50; b is an integer ranging between 10 and 350, c is an integer ranging from 0 to 50, provided that one of the parameters a and c is different from 0. Preferably, the unit of formula (I) above has at least one, and even more preferably all, of the following characteristics: the radicals G 1 denote an alkyl radical, preferably the methyl radical; n is non-zero, and the radicals G 2 represent a divalent radical C 1 -C 3, preferably a propylene radical; - G3 represents a polymeric radical resulting from the (homo) polymerization of at least one monomer of the ethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid type, preferably acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid; - G4 represents a polymeric radical resulting from the (homo) polymerization of at least one monomer of the (meth) acrylate type (Ci-Cio), preferably of the type (meth) acrylate of isobutyl or methyl. Examples of silicone polymers corresponding to formula (I) are, in particular, polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) on which are grafted, via a thiopropylene-type connecting member, mixed polymeric units of the poly (meth) acrylic acid type. and of the poly (meth) acrylate type. Other examples of silicone polymers corresponding to formula (I) are, in particular, polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) on which are grafted, via a thiopropylene type connecting member, poly (meth) acrylate type polymer units. isobutyl. iv) Silicone resins The silicone surface agent can be chosen from silicone resins. By "resin" is meant a three-dimensional structure.
    [0040] Silicone resins can be soluble or swellable in silicone oils. These resins are crosslinked polyorganosiloxane polymers.
    [0041] The nomenclature of the silicone resins is known under the name of "MDTQ", the resin being described according to the different siloxane monomer units that it comprises, each of the letters "MDTQ" characterizing a type of unit. The letter M represents the monofunctional unit of formula (CH 3) 3 SiO 1/2, the silicon atom being connected to a single oxygen atom in the polymer comprising this unit. The letter D signifies a difunctional unit (CH3) 2SiO2 / 2 in which the silicon atom is connected to two oxygen atoms. The letter T represents a trifunctional unit of formula (CH3) SiO3 / 2.
    [0042] In the units M, D and T defined above, at least one of the methyl groups may be substituted by a group R other than the methyl group such as a hydrocarbon radical (in particular alkyl) having from 2 to 10 carbon atoms or a phenyl group or else a hydroxyl group. Finally, the letter Q signifies a tetra-functional SiO4 / 2 unit in which the silicon atom is bonded to four hydrogen atoms, themselves linked to the remainder of the polymer. Various resins of different properties can be obtained from these different units, the properties of these polymers varying according to the type of monomers (or units), the type and number of substituted radicals, the length of the polymer chain, the degree of branching and size of the hanging chains. By way of example of these silicone resins, mention may be made of: siloxysilicates which may be trimethylsiloxysilicate of formula RCH3) 3XSiXOLX (SiO4 / 2) y (MQ units) in which x and y are integers ranging from 50 to 80 ; polysilesquioxanes of formula (CH 3 SiO 3/2) (units T) in which x is greater than 100 and at least one of the methyl radicals may be substituted by a group R as defined above; polymethylsilsesquioxanes which are polysilsesquioxanes in which none of the methyl radicals is substituted by another group. Such polymethylsilsesquioxanes are described in US 5,246,694. By way of examples of commercially available polymethylsilsesquioxane resins, mention may be made of those sold: by the company Wacker under the reference Resin MK such as Belsil PMS MK: polymer comprising repeating units CH3SiO3 / 2 (T units), also comprise up to 1% by weight of (CH 3) 2 SiO 2/2 units (D units) and having an average molecular weight of about 10,000; by the company SHIN-ETSU under the references KR-220L which are composed of T units of formula CH3SiO3 / 2 and have terminal Si-OH groups (silanol), under the reference KR-242A which comprise 98% of units T and 2% of dimethyl D units and have Si-OH end groups or alternatively under the reference KR-251 comprising 88% of T units and 12% of dimethyl D units and have Si-OH end groups.
    [0043] As siloxysilicate resins, mention may be made of trimethylsiloxysilicate (TMS) resins optionally in the form of powders. Such resins are sold under the references SR1000, E 1 170-002 or SS 4230, by the company General Electric or under the references TMS 803, WACKER 803 and 804 by the company WACKER SILICONE CORPORATION.
    [0044] Mention may also be made of timethylsiloxysilicate resins sold in a solvent such as cyclomethicone, sold under the name "KF-7312J" by the company Shin-Etsu, "DC 749", "DC 593" by the company Dow Corning. By way of example of commercial references of pigments treated with a silicone compound, mention may be made of: the red iron oxide / dimethicone sold under the reference SA-C 338075-10 by the company Miyoshi Kasei; and a pigment obtained by treating DC Red 7 with a silicone compound sold by the company Coletica under the reference Gransil GCM (which is a mixture of D5 and polysilicon 11).
    [0045] Fluoride surfactant The pigments can be totally or partially surface-treated with a fluorinated compound. The fluorinated surfactants may be chosen from perfluoroalkyl phosphates, perfluoropolyethers, polytetrafluoropolyethylenes (PTFE), perfluoroalkanes, perfluoroalkyl silazanes, hexafluoropropylene polyoxides and polyorganosiloxanes comprising perfluoroalkyl perfluoropolyether groups.
    [0046] The term "perfluoroalkyl radical" is understood to mean an alkyl radical in which all the hydrogen atoms have been replaced by fluorine atoms. Perfluoropolyethers are described in particular in patent application EP 0 486 135 and sold under the trade names FOMBLIN by the company MONTEFLUO S. Perfluoroalkyl phosphates are in particular described in application JP H05-86984. The perfluoroalkyl phosphate-diethanolamine sold by Asahi Glass under the reference AsahiGuard AG530 can be used. Among the linear perfluoroalkanes, there may be mentioned perfluorocycloalkanes, perfluoro (alkylcycloalkanes), perfluoropolycycloalkanes, perfluorinated aromatic hydrocarbons (perfluoroarenes) and perfluorinated hydrocarbon compounds containing at least one heteroatom. Among the perfluoroalkanes, there may be mentioned the series of linear alkanes such as perfluorooctane, perfluorononane or perfluorodecane. Among the perfluorocycloalkanes and perfluoro (alkylcycloalkanes), mention may be made of perfluorodecalin sold under the name "FLUTEC PP5 GMP" by RHODIA, perfluoro (methyldecalin), perfluoro (C 3 -C 5 alkylcyclohexanes), such as perfluoro (butylcyclohexane). Among the perfluoropolycycloalkanes, mention may be made of bicyclo [3.3.1] nonane derivatives such as perfluorotrimethylbicyclo [3.3.1] nonane, adamantane derivatives such as perfluorodimethyladamantane and perfluorinated derivatives of hydrogenated phenanthrene such as tetracosafluoro- tetradecahydrophenanthrene. Among the perfluoroarenes, mention may be made of perfluorinated derivatives of naphthalene such as perfluoronaphthalene and perfluoromethyl-1-naphthalene. By way of example of commercial references of pigments treated with a fluorinated compound, mention may be made of: yellow iron oxide / perfluoroalkylphosphate sold under the reference PF 5 Yellow 601 by the company Daito Kasei; the red iron oxide / perfluoroalkylphosphate sold under the reference 30 PF 5 Red R 516L by the company Daito Kasei; black iron oxide / perfluoroalkyl phosphate sold under the reference PF 5 Black BL 100 by the company Daito Kasei; titanium dioxide / perfluoroalkyl phosphate sold under the reference PF 5 TiO 2 CR 50 by the company Daito Kasei; yellow iron oxide / perfluoropolymethylisopropylether sold under the reference Iron oxide yellow BF-25-3 by the company Toshiki; - DC Red 7 / perfluoropolymethylisopropylether sold under the reference D & C Red 7 FHC by Cardre Inc.; and the DC Red 6 / PTFE sold under the reference T 9506 by the company WarnerJenkinson.
    [0047] Fluoro-silicone surface agent The pigments can be totally or partially surface-treated with a fluoro-silicone compound. The fluoro-silicone compound may be chosen from perfluoroalkyl dimethicones, perfluoroalkyl silanes and perfluoroalkyl trialkoxysilanes.
    [0048] As perfluoroalkyl silanes, mention may be made of LP-IT and LP-4T products marketed by Shin-Etsu Silicone. The perfluoroalkyl dimethicones may be represented by the following formula: ## STR2 ## in which: R represents a divalent linear or branched alkyl group, having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably a divalent methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl group; Rf represents a perfluoroalkyl radical having 1 to 9 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms; m is selected from 0 to 150, preferably from 20 to 100; and n is chosen from 1 to 300, preferably from 1 to 100. By way of example of commercial references of pigment treated with a fluoro-silicone compound, mention may be made of titanium dioxide / fluorosilicone sold under the reference Fluorosil Titanium 100TA dioxide by Advanced Dermaceuticals International Inc. Other lipophilic surfactants The hydrophobic treatment agent may also be selected from: i) metal soaps such as aluminum dimyristate, and aluminum salt of tallow glutamate hydrogenated; As metal soaps, mention may be made in particular of metal fatty acid soaps having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and in particular those having from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.
    [0049] The metal soap metal may in particular be zinc or magnesium. As the metal soap, zinc laurate, magnesium stearate, magnesium myristate, zinc stearate, and mixtures thereof can be used. ii) fatty acids such as lauric acid, myristic acid, stearic acid, palmitic acid; iii) N-acyl amino acids or their salts which may comprise an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, for example a 2-ethyl hexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group; The amino acid can be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine. The salts of these compounds may be the aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts. Thus, according to a particularly preferred embodiment, an N-acylated amino acid derivative may in particular be a glutamic acid derivative and / or a salt thereof, and more particularly a stearoyl glutamate, such as, for example, stearoyl glutamate. 'aluminum. iv) lecithin and its derivatives; v) triisostearyl isopropyl titanate; Examples of pigments treated with isopropyl titanium triisostearate (ITT) include those sold under the trade reference BWBO-I2 triisostearate), and BWRO-I2 (Iron oxide CI77491 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate) by KOBO. vi) isostearyl sebacate; (vii) natural vegetable or animal waxes or polar synthetic waxes; viii) fatty esters, in particular by jojoba esters; ix) phospholipids; and x) their mixtures. The waxes mentioned in the compounds mentioned above may be those generally used in the cosmetics field, as defined below. They can in particular be hydrocarbon, silicone and / or fluorinated, optionally comprising ester or hydroxyl functions. They can also be of natural or synthetic origin. The term "polar wax" means a wax containing chemical compounds comprising at least one polar group. Polar groups are well known to those skilled in the art; it may be for example an alcohol, ester, carboxylic acid group. Polyester waxes, paraffin waxes, microcrystalline waxes, ozokerite, Fisher-Tropsch waxes are not included in the polar waxes. In particular, the polar waxes have an average solubility parameter 8a of HANSEN at 25 ° C such that 8a> 0 (J / cm3) 1/2 and better 8a> 1 (J / cm3) 1/2: where 8p and 8h are respectively the polar and interaction-specific contributions to Hansen's solubility parameters. The definition of solvents in the HANSEN three-dimensional solubility space is described in the article by C. M. Hansen, "The three dimensional solubility parameters" J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967): - 8h characterizes the specific interaction forces (hydrogen bond, acid / base, donor / acceptor type, etc.); - 8p characterizes the DEBYE interaction forces between permanent dipoles as well as the KEESOM interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles.
    [0050] The parameters 5p and 8h are expressed in (J / cm3) 1/2.
    [0051] A polar wax consists in particular of molecules comprising, in addition to carbon and hydrogen atoms in their chemical structure, heteroatoms (such as O, N, P). By way of non-limiting illustration of these polar waxes, mention may be made especially of natural polar waxes, such as beeswax, lanolin wax, orange wax, lemon wax, and insect waxes. China, rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, japanese wax and sumach wax, montan wax.
    [0052] According to a particular embodiment, the pigments may be coated with at least one compound chosen from silicone surface agents; fluorinated surfactants; N-acyl amino acids or their salts; isopropyl trisostearyl titanate; natural vegetable or animal waxes; fatty esters; and their mixtures. According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the pigments may be coated with an N-acylated amino acid and / or a salt thereof, in particular with a glutamic acid derivative and / or a salt thereof, or with a fatty ester , in particular by a jojoba ester. According to a more particularly preferred embodiment, the pigments may be coated with an N-acylated amino acid and / or a salt thereof, in particular with a glutamic acid derivative and / or a salt thereof, especially a stearoyl glutamate. such as aluminum stearoyl glutamate. As examples of coated pigments according to the invention, mention may be made more particularly of titanium dioxide and iron oxide, coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate, for example sold under the reference NAI by MIYOSHI KASEI.
    [0053] The pigments coated with at least one hydrophobic compound are present in a composition of the invention in a proportion ranging from 5% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 10% to 15%. .
    [0054] Pigments not coated with a hydrophobic compound As stated above, a composition may further contain pigments not coated with a lipophilic or hydrophobic compound. These other pigments can be coated with a hydrophilic compound or uncoated. These pigments may be inorganic pigments in particular as defined above. These pigments can also be organic pigments. By "organic pigment" is meant any pigment that meets the definition of the Ullmann encyclopedia in the organic pigment chapter. The organic pigment may especially be chosen from nitroso compounds, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, quinophthalone.
    [0055] The organic pigment (s) may be chosen, for example, from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanine, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, and blue pigments codified in the formula. Color Index under the references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100, 74160, the yellow pigments coded in the Color Index under the references CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, the pigments coded in the Color Index under the references CI 61565, 61570, 74260, the orange pigments coded in the Color Index under the references CI 11725, 15510, 45370, 71105, the red pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, and the pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole derivatives, phenolic as they are These pigments can also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments can be composed in particular of particles comprising an inorganic core covered at least partially an organic pigment and at least one binder for fixing the organic pigments on the core.
    [0056] The pigment can also be a lacquer. By lacquer is meant insolubilized dyes adsorbed on insoluble particles, the assembly thus obtained remaining insoluble during use. The inorganic substrates on which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium and sodium borosilicate or calcium and aluminum borosilicate, and aluminum. Among the organic dyes, mention may be made of cochineal carmine. Mention may also be made of the products known under the following names: D & C Red 21 (CI 45,380), D & C Orange 5 (CI 45,370), D & C Red 27 (CI 45,410), D & C Orange 10 (CI 45,425), D & C Red 3 (CI 45,430), D & C Red 4 (CI 15,510), D & C Red 33 (CI 17,200), D & C Yellow 5 (CI 19,140), D & C Yellow 6 (CI 15,985), D & C Green (CI 61,570) , D & C Yellow 10 (CI 77,002), D & C Green 3 (CI 42,053), D & C Blue 1 (CI 42,090). As examples of lacquers, mention may be made of the product known under the name D & C Red 7 (CI 15 850: 1).
    [0057] Nature of the hydrophilic coating As stated above, these other pigments may be coated with a hydrophilic compound. Said hydrophilic compound for surface treatment of a pigment to optimize its dispersion in the gelled aqueous phase is more particularly chosen from biological polymers, carbohydrates, polysaccharides, polyacrylates or polyethylene glycol derivatives. As examples of biological polymers, mention may be made of polymers based on carbohydrate-type monomers.
    [0058] More particularly, mention may be made of the biosaccharide gum; chitosans and their derivatives, such as butoxy chitosan, carboxymethyl chitosan, carboxybutyl chitosan, chitosan gluconate, chitosan adipate, chitosan glycolate, chitosan lactate, etc. ; chitins and their derivatives, such as carboxymethyl chitin, chitin glycolate; cellulose and its derivatives such as cellulose acetate; microcrystalline cellulose; diamidon phosphate; sodium hyaluronate; soluble proteoglycans; galacto-arabinans; glycosaminoglycans; glycogen; Sclerotium gum; dextran; starch and its derivatives; and their mixtures.
    [0059] As examples of carbohydrates, there may be mentioned in particular polyhydroxyaldehydes or polyhydroxyketones, of general formula: C (H 2 O) y in which x and y may range from 1 to 1,000,000.
    [0060] The carbohydrates can be monosaccharides, disaccharides or polysaccharides. Examples of carbohydrates that may be mentioned include amylodextrins, betaglucans, cyclodextrins, modified corn starch, glycogen, hyaluronic acid, hydroxypropylcylodextrin, lactose, maltitole, guanosine, glyceryl starch, Triticum vulgare starch, trehalose, sucrose and its derivatives, raffinose, sodium chondroitin sulfate. Can also be used as surface treatment agents, C1-C20 alkylenic glycols or C1-C20 alkylen glycol ethers, alone or used in combination with tri-Ci-C20 alkylsilanes.
    [0061] Mention may be made, by way of example, of pigments surface-treated with PEG alkyl ether alkoxy silane, such as, for example, pigments treated with PEG-8-methyl ether triethoxysilane marketed by KOBO under the name of "SW" pigments. . Silicones such as dimethicones having hydrophilic groups, also known as dimethicone copolyols or alkyl dimethicone copolyols, may also be suitable for the invention as surface treatment agents. In particular, such dimethicones may comprise, as repeating units, C 1 -C 20 alkylene oxides, such as ethylenic or propylene. By way of example, mention may be made of the pigment treated with PEG-12-dimethicone sold by SENSIENT CORPORATION under the name LCW AQ pigment. The quantity of pigments coated with at least one hydrophilic compound and / or uncoated pigments is in particular conditioned by the destination of the cosmetic composition in question and its adjustment is of course within the competence of the formulator of the composition.
    [0062] Particles with a metallic sheen The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one particle with a metallic sheen For the purposes of the present invention, the term "particles with metallic sheen" means any compound whose nature, size, structure and shape. Its surface state allows it to reflect incident light, particularly in a non-iridescent way. The particles with a metallic sheen that can be used in the invention are in particular chosen from: particles of at least one metal and / or at least one metal derivative; particles comprising a substrate, organic or inorganic, monomaterial or multimaterial, at least partially covered by at least one metal-reflecting layer comprising at least one metal and / or at least one metal derivative; and - mixtures of said particles. Among the metals that may be present in said particles, mention may be made, for example, of Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Ni, Sn, Mg, Cr, Mo, Ti, Zr, Pt, Va, Rb, W, Zn, Ge, Te. Se and their mixtures or alloys. Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Zn, Ni, Mo, Cr, and mixtures or alloys thereof (eg, bronzes and brasses) are preferred metals. The term "metal derivatives" denotes compounds derived from metals, in particular oxides, fluorides, chlorides and sulphides.
    [0063] By way of illustration of these particles, mention may be made of aluminum particles, such as those sold under the names Starbrite 1200 EAC® by the company Siberline and Metalure® by the company Eckart, and glass particles coated with a metal layer in particular. those described in JP-A-09188830, JP-A-10158450, JP-A-10158541, JP-A-07258460 and JP-A-05017710.
    [0064] A composition according to the invention may comprise from 0% to 15% by weight of particles with a metallic sheen, relative to the total weight of said composition. Additional Loads Advantageously, a composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more additional filler (s) conventionally used in skincare and / or make-up compositions and different micas, pigments and particles with reflections. metallic.
    [0065] These fillers are colorless or solid white particles of all shapes, which are in an insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition. Of mineral or organic nature, natural or synthetic, they make it possible to confer on the composition containing them softness, dullness and uniformity in makeup. In addition, these fillers advantageously make it possible to fight against various aggressions such as sebum or sweat. As an illustration of these fillers, mention may be made of talc, silica, kaolin, poly-13-alanine and polyethylene powders, tetrafluoroethylene (Teflon) polymer powders, lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride, polymeric hollow microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile such as Expancel® (Nobel Industrie), acrylic acid copolymers, silicone resin microbeads (Toshiba Tospearls®, for example) , elastomeric polyorganosiloxane particles, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydrocyanate, hydroxyapatite, barium sulfate, aluminum oxides, polyurethane powders, composite fillers, microspheres hollow silica, and microcapsules of glass or ceramic. It is also possible to use particles, which are in the form of portions of hollow spheres, as described in patent applications JP-2003 128 788 and JP-2000 191 789.
    [0066] In particular, such fillers may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content of between 0.01% and 25% by weight, in particular between 0.1% and 20% by weight, in particular between 1%. and 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the dispersant agent composition Advantageously, a composition according to the invention may further comprise a dispersing agent. Such a dispersing agent may be a surfactant, an oligomer, a polymer or a mixture of several of them.
    [0067] According to one particular embodiment, a dispersing agent according to the invention is an active surfactant. For a particular care application, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one moisturizing agent also called humectant. Preferably, the moisturizing agent is glycerin.
    [0068] The moisturizing agent (s) may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, in particular from 0.5% to 10% by weight, or even from 1% to 8% by weight, relative to to the total weight of said composition. Other active agents which may be used in the composition of the invention include, for example, vitamins, sunscreens and mixtures thereof.
    [0069] Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one active ingredient. It is a matter of routine practice for those skilled in the art to adjust the nature and the quantity of the additives present in the compositions according to the invention, such as so that the desired cosmetic properties of these are not affected. According to another embodiment, a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a makeup base composition for makeup. According to another embodiment, a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a foundation. Such compositions are especially prepared according to the general knowledge of those skilled in the art. Throughout the description, including the claims, the phrase "having one" should be understood as being synonymous with "having at least one", unless the opposite is specified. Expressions "between ... and ..." and "from ... to ..." must be understood as inclusive terms unless otherwise specified. The invention is illustrated in more detail by the examples presented hereinafter. Unless otherwise indicated, the quantities indicated are expressed as a percentage by mass.
    [0070] EXAMPLES In the following tables, the amount of each compound is given in% by weight / total weight of the composition.
    [0071] Preparation of the compositions Compositions: Compounds Example 1 Example 2 Comparative Conformance Example 3 PHASE Al Iron oxide (and) glutamate 2 1.88 1.88 disodium stearoyl (and) aluminum hydroxide, yellow (Miyoshi Kasei) Iron oxide (and) 0.75 0.70 0.70 disodium stearoyl (and) aluminum hydroxide, red (Miyoshi Kasei) glutamate Iron (and) 0.5 0.47 0.47 disodium stearoyl (and) glutamate (and) ) Aluminum hydroxide, black (Miyoshi Kasei) Iron oxide (and) 9.55 8.95 8.95 8.95 disodium stearoyl (and) aluminum hydroxide, white (Miyoshi Kasei) PHASE A2 Disteard monium Hecto 1 , 13 1,13 1,14 LIPOPHILE Synthetic Flumphlogopite 1,33 1,33 - (SYNAFIL S1050 from Eckart) Phenoxyethanol 1 1 1 Mica-titanium oxide (mother of pearl) 1,22 - - (FLAMENCO SUMMIT GOLD Y3OD from BASF PERSONAL CARE INGREDIENTS) Cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1 0.8 0.84 0.83 Dimethicone PEG-10 Dimethicone 5.12 5.12 5.2 Isododecane 17.31 17.51 17.51 Polyglyceryl + isostearate 0.61 0 , 61 0.62 Dodecamethylpentas iloxane 22.61 23.4 23.58 (Dimethicone 2cSt) PHASE B Butylene glycol 3.78 3.78 3.84 HYDROPHIL Water Deionized Qs 100 Qs 100 Qs 100 Glycerin 7.17 7.28 7.28 Evaluate on ++ + + _ Preparation: To prepare the Al phase, the pigments are ground in half the amount of dodecamethylpentasiloxane, the iron oxides are milled three times to the three-cylinder. The components of phase A2 are weighed and the mixture is stirred to obtain a homogeneous phase. Phase A1 is introduced with stirring into phase A2 to obtain phase A. The aqueous phase B is emulsified in phase A with stirring for 15 minutes at 2500 rpm.
    [0072] Results A panel of five people tested, in comparison, these foundations on half-face: 0.10 g of a composition was applied on a half-face then 0.10 g of another composition was applied on the other half-face.
    [0073] The cosmetics of the formulas to the application, that is to say the visual aspect and the feeling to the touch, as well as the makeup result were evaluated. Compositions 1 and 2 have been found to be satisfactory: they lead to a deposition judged finer and homogeneous than that obtained by means of comparative composition 3.
    [0074] In addition, composition 1 makes it possible to obtain a natural make-up covering without marking the dry zones or the reliefs of the face. Composition 1 corresponds to the preferred composition of the testers.
    权利要求:
    Claims (16)
    [0001]
    REVENDICATIONS1. Composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, especially for coating keratin materials, more particularly for makeup and / or care of keratin materials, such as the skin, in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising an aqueous phase, a fatty phase and pigments characterized in that: said composition comprises at least mica in a proportion ranging from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and at least one lipophilic clay, said fatty phase comprises at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil and at least one non-cyclic silicone oil.
    [0002]
    2. Composition according to the preceding claim, wherein the non-cyclic silicone oil has at 25 ° C a viscosity of between 1 and 20 cSt.
    [0003]
    3. Composition according to the preceding claim wherein the non-cyclic silicone oil is a dimethicone corresponding to the following formula (II): (II) x is an integer ranging from 1 to 50, better still from 1 to 20 and more specifically from 1 to 10.
    [0004]
    4. Composition according to the preceding claim wherein the non-cyclic silicone oil is selected from octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane or dimethicones equal viscosity to 5cSt.
    [0005]
    5. Composition according to one of the preceding claims wherein the noncyclic silicone oil is present in a content ranging from 0.1 to 40% by weight, particularly from 5 to 35% by weight and more particularly from 10 to 25%. by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
    [0006]
    6. Composition according to one of the preceding claims wherein the volatile hydrocarbon oil comprises from 8 to 16 carbon atoms.
    [0007]
    7. Composition according to the preceding claim wherein the volatile hydrocarbon oil is selected from C8-C16 branched alkanes including isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane and branched C8-C16 esters such as iso neopentanoate. hexyl, and mixtures thereof.
    [0008]
    8. Composition according to the preceding claim wherein the volatile hydrocarbon oil is chosen from volatile linear alkanes comprising 8 to 16 carbon atoms, such as n-dodecane and n-tetradecane, and mixtures thereof, undecane mixtures. -tridécane.
    [0009]
    9. Composition according to one of the preceding claims wherein the volatile hydrocarbon oil is present in a content ranging from 0.1 to 40% by weight, particularly from 0.5 to 35% by weight and more particularly from 2 to 25% by weight. % by weight, better still 5 to 20% by weight or even 10 to 18% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
    [0010]
    10. Composition according to one of the preceding claims wherein the lipophilic clay is selected from hectorites modified with a C10 to C22 ammonium chloride.
    [0011]
    11. Composition according to one of the preceding claims wherein the lipophilic clay is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, in particular from 0.5% to 10%, more particularly from 0, 7% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
    [0012]
    12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the mica is in the form of filler (s), in the form of mother-of-pearl (s), or in the form of mixtures of filler (s) and mother-of-pearl (s).
    [0013]
    13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, containing mica in a proportion ranging from 1.2 to 5% and preferably from 1.5 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
    [0014]
    14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one pigment coated with at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound.
    [0015]
    15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in the form of a foundation.
    [0016]
    16. A process for coating keratin materials, more particularly for makeup and / or care of keratin materials, such as the skin, characterized in that it comprises applying to the keratin materials at least one composition according to the invention. any of the preceding claims.
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    FR3029423A1|2016-06-10|COMPOSITIONS COMPRISING AN ASSOCIATIVE POLYURETHANE, ALCOHOL OR FATTY ACID, NON-IONIC SURFACTANT AND PIGMENT
    FR3060361A1|2018-06-22|WATER-IN-OIL EMULSION COMPRISING A PARTICULAR EMULSIFYING SYSTEM, A LIPOPHILIC CLAY, AN ELASTOMERIC ORGANOPOLYSILOXANE POWDER COATED WITH A SILICONE RESIN
    FR2988293A1|2013-09-27|Cosmetic composition, useful for making up and caring skin, comprises non-volatile ester, and emulsifying silicone elastomer, where composition is in form of water-in-oil emulsion including aqueous phase dispersed in fatty phase
    FR3041532A1|2017-03-31|LIQUID COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING A HIGH CONTENT OF NON-VOLATILE OILS AND METHOD OF TREATING LIP
    FR3060383B1|2019-10-18|COMPOSITION CONTAINING CONTINUOUS OIL PHASE, SS LIQUID, SS-DIPHENYLACRYLATE UV FILTER, SALICYLATE LIQUID UV FILTER, AND NON-CYCLIC VOLATILE SILICONE OIL
    FR3083116A1|2020-01-03|COMPOSITION COMPRISING AN ESTER-TERMINATED POLYMER |, A VOLATILE ALKANE, A TACKIFYING RESIN AND AT LEAST ONE PIGMENT
    FR3059545A1|2018-06-08|OIL-IN-WATER EMULSION COMPRISING A GEMINE SURFACTANT, A SILICONE SURFACTANT AND A PIGMENT
    FR3031305A1|2016-07-08|PARTICULARLY COSMETIC MAKE-UP COMPOSITION COMPRISING AT LEAST TWO NON-CYCLIC SILICONE OILS
    FR3031307A1|2016-07-08|COMPOSITION COMPRISING AT LEAST 0.45% WEIGHT OF A C6-C10 AROMATIC ETHER OF C2-C9 POLYOL, A C4-C16 GLYCOL, AND NON-CYCLIC SILICONE OIL
    FR3069439A1|2019-02-01|WATER EMULSION IN OIL COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE NON-VOLATILE OIL, AT LEAST ONE SILICONE RESIN AND AT LEAST ONE POLYURETHANE GROUP FILM POLYMER
    FR3085273A1|2020-03-06|POLYOL ANHYDROUS EMULSION IN SILICONE WITHOUT ALKYL DIMETHICONE COPOLYOL COMPRISING AN EMULSIZING SILICONE ELASTOMER AND AT LEAST ONE HYDROPHOBIC MODIFIED PIGMENT
    FR3006188A1|2014-12-05|COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS COMPRISING AN ASSOCIATIVE POLYURETHANE AND A HYDROPHOBIC COATED PIGMENT
    FR3085272A1|2020-03-06|POLYOL ANHYDROUS EMULSION IN SILICONE COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE HYDROPHOBIC COATED PIGMENT WITHOUT ALKYL DIMETHICONE COPOLYOL AND WITHOUT EMULSIFIER
    FR3025097A1|2016-03-04|GEL / GEL COMPRISING AT LEAST TWO LOOSE EFFECTS
    同族专利:
    公开号 | 公开日
    EP3242651B1|2021-08-04|
    EP3919043A1|2021-12-08|
    FR3031306B1|2020-01-10|
    WO2016110475A1|2016-07-14|
    ES2894775T3|2022-02-15|
    JP6789949B2|2020-11-25|
    JP2018501278A|2018-01-18|
    EP3242651A1|2017-11-15|
    JP2020169199A|2020-10-15|
    US20180263867A1|2018-09-20|
    EP3919043A4|2021-12-08|
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    法律状态:
    2015-12-08| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 2 |
    2016-07-08| PLSC| Publication of the preliminary search report|Effective date: 20160708 |
    2016-12-15| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 3 |
    2017-12-11| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 4 |
    2018-12-13| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 5 |
    2019-12-16| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 6 |
    2020-12-10| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 7 |
    2021-12-17| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 8 |
    优先权:
    申请号 | 申请日 | 专利标题
    FR1550031|2015-01-05|
    FR1550031A|FR3031306B1|2015-01-05|2015-01-05|COMPOSITION, IN PARTICULAR COSMETIC FOR MAKE-UP AND / OR CARE, COMPRISING A LIPOPHILIC CLAY, OF 1 TO 10% MICA WEIGHT, AND AT LEAST ONE NON-CYCLIC SILICONE OIL|FR1550031A| FR3031306B1|2015-01-05|2015-01-05|COMPOSITION, IN PARTICULAR COSMETIC FOR MAKE-UP AND / OR CARE, COMPRISING A LIPOPHILIC CLAY, OF 1 TO 10% MICA WEIGHT, AND AT LEAST ONE NON-CYCLIC SILICONE OIL|
    EP16700017.3A| EP3242651B1|2015-01-05|2016-01-05|Composition, in particular a cosmetic makeup and/or care composition, comprising a lipophilic clay, from 1.2% to 5% by weight of mica and at least one non-cyclic silicone oil|
    US15/541,411| US20180263867A1|2015-01-05|2016-01-05|Composition, in particular a cosmetic makeup and/or care composition, comprising a lipophilic clay, from 1% to 10% by weight of mica and at least one non-cyclic silicone oil|
    ES16700017T| ES2894775T3|2015-01-05|2016-01-05|Composition, in particular a cosmetic make-up and/or care composition, comprising a lipophilic clay, 1.2% to 5% by weight of mica and at least one non-cyclic silicone oil|
    JP2017535780A| JP6789949B2|2015-01-05|2016-01-05|Compositions containing lipophilic clay, 1% to 10% by weight mica, and at least one acyclic silicone oil, specifically cosmetic make-up and / or care compositions.|
    PCT/EP2016/050044| WO2016110475A1|2015-01-05|2016-01-05|Composition, in particular a cosmetic makeup and/or care composition, comprising a lipophilic clay, from 1% to 10% by weight of mica and at least one non-cyclic silicone oil|
    EP21180116.2A| EP3919043A4|2015-01-05|2016-01-05|Composition, in particular a cosmetic makeup and/or care composition, comprising a lipophilic clay, from 1% to 10% by weight of mica and at least one non-cyclic silicone oil|
    JP2020114778A| JP2020169199A|2015-01-05|2020-07-02|Composition, in particular cosmetic makeup and/or care composition, comprising lipophilic clay, 1-10 mass% of mica and at least one non-cyclic silicone oil|
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